Cheers for your response
Out of curiosity what's the max import load from the grid on a single phase domestic supply like mine?
Can it handle 7.5k on the car and 5k on the battery charging simultaneously?
Lastly below is my scheduled charge for tonight...
The solar battery is scheduled to dump at 10.30pm so which will take preference the dumping or the car charging?
You would need to check your main fuse rating, it is typically an 80 or 100A (sometimes it can be as small as 60 but you would know if that were the case as the EV install would have flagged it).nadlad1984 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 21, 2025 8:00 pm Cheers for your response
Out of curiosity what's the max import load from the grid on a single phase domestic supply like mine?
Can it handle 7.5k on the car and 5k on the battery charging simultaneously?
For any of those your car and battery load combined would be within it's limits i.e. 7.5+5=12kW, 60A=~13.8kW, 80A=~18.4kW, 100A=~23kW
When you dump your battery to the grid any appliance in front of it will think you are exporting so if your EV charger is capable of starting when it sees excess solar it would start charging, if you use an iboost it would start heating your water etc..nadlad1984 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 21, 2025 8:00 pm
The solar battery is scheduled to dump at 10.30pm so which will take preference the dumping or the car charging?
Your grid connection is effectively a single 'pipe' it can suck or blow, but not do both at the same time, if your EV is charging when you are dumping your battery your battery power will be used by the EV so best to find a time to dump when the EV is likely not to be plugged in or charging.
Dearr all.
I have approached this differently. I recently had the PW3 installed in March, and I am on IoG. The dynamic charging caused me some grief, so initially, I ordered a Home Assistant to monitor my charger (Ohme Home Pro), and whenever the status of the charger changed to "Charging", I had a little script to tell my PW3 then to charge to 100%
When it stops, it will revert to my reserve level.
However, whilst having fun with the Raspberry Pi Home Assistant, I then came across an app called NetZero, and that is now my only tool that I use. It's very clever and intuitive. You do have to pay a monthly subscription, but it works a treat.
The developer has advice on integrating with a lot of different chargers but Ohme was one that fell out of that scope. However, they did give me a workaround.
It is an excellent app and is constantly being updated.
Now, whenever my car is plugged in and charging, within a minute or two, my battery starts charging. As the car charges, I only pay 7p per kWh. Even when the battery reaches 100%, it goes into standby mode.
Another tip that I would recommend is that you put the car into Current Limiting mode so that it takes longer to charge and therefore longer on the 7P rate (Dynamic Tariff Permitting)
Finally, I also changed the amps on my charger to 16 rather than 32. Not for everyone, but it suits my lifestyle.
I hope that helps.
I have approached this differently. I recently had the PW3 installed in March, and I am on IoG. The dynamic charging caused me some grief, so initially, I ordered a Home Assistant to monitor my charger (Ohme Home Pro), and whenever the status of the charger changed to "Charging", I had a little script to tell my PW3 then to charge to 100%
When it stops, it will revert to my reserve level.
However, whilst having fun with the Raspberry Pi Home Assistant, I then came across an app called NetZero, and that is now my only tool that I use. It's very clever and intuitive. You do have to pay a monthly subscription, but it works a treat.
The developer has advice on integrating with a lot of different chargers but Ohme was one that fell out of that scope. However, they did give me a workaround.
It is an excellent app and is constantly being updated.
Now, whenever my car is plugged in and charging, within a minute or two, my battery starts charging. As the car charges, I only pay 7p per kWh. Even when the battery reaches 100%, it goes into standby mode.
Another tip that I would recommend is that you put the car into Current Limiting mode so that it takes longer to charge and therefore longer on the 7P rate (Dynamic Tariff Permitting)
Finally, I also changed the amps on my charger to 16 rather than 32. Not for everyone, but it suits my lifestyle.
I hope that helps.
Hi intresting...
It appears that only works with pw tesla batteries so no good for me as am unable to get a sign in.
My setup is working a treat I noticed as I was discharging it was still showing ev charging at 3.7kw unless there's a lag in my app but so far so good.
It appears that only works with pw tesla batteries so no good for me as am unable to get a sign in.
My setup is working a treat I noticed as I was discharging it was still showing ev charging at 3.7kw unless there's a lag in my app but so far so good.
Is this 60 or 80 app breaker...
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One thing for sure is that it isn’t a 100A fuse… but unless there are any other markings only your DNO will know for sure what fuse has been fitted to the carrier.
The person who installed your EV charger should know as they would have done an assessment on the property as part of the install, and it will likely throttle the EV charger if you are using a lot of power at the same time.