FoxESS Community - Owners & Installers Forum

Clipped means lost as heat, yes. Not sure about the rest of your question as I don't use the force discharge options myself.

Make sure the jacket of the cable you run outside is UV rated, or even better ideally put it inside external rated conduit. Normal PVC jacketed cabling won't last too well if it's in strong sun, although you'd probably get away with it if it was on a north facing wall.

With "only" two batteries, reducing the current they have to supply is going to be good for them, yes.

Conceptually, this is relatively straighforward, assuming to have a HA instance and an integration that gives you direct control over your inverter.

Assuming both of these, you can install a Shelly power meter on the circuit your oven runs from, and when the power value from that goes above ...

https://foxesscommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=215 worth a read on this topic.

My rule of thumb - below 15C you'll see some loss of capacity and current delivering ability. This gets noticeably worse below 10C and below 5C you're going to see the pack shut itself down to prevent damage.

FWIW LFP ...

Hi Roy

I just used 9mm (ie fairly thin) OSB, which I got the guy at B&Q to cut to size. I screwed and glued battens to the corners to have something to join them together with. I actually used threaded inserts and machine screws to join the corners, as I anticipated needing to open up the box in ...

Thick low cloud will really hurt solar output; overcast-yet-bright days can be surprisingly good. Over time you get a feel for it, weirdly.

Even with a 8kW array, I doubt that in December or January (or February for that matter) you'll get enough solar gain to make running a 750W heater cost neutral, especially if you're heating an uninsulated metal shed, and you want to use whatever gain you do get for ordinary household purposes. I ...

I would really look at insulating before you spend a small fortune on keeping a metal walled shed up to temperature in winter. You could insulate the shed, but seeing how well it works just insulating around the battery stack itself, that would be my suggestion. If you leave enough volume around the ...

Going on my experience, if your shed is uninsulated and it's close to 0 during the winter, your batteries will cool down to the point the BMS will probably disable them due to temperature. We had our system installed November '21, and by January the system had basically stopped. I bought materials ...

FWIW we have an air source heatpump in a family home, in the winter daily usage can be as much as 60kWh for heating alone, and is quite often above 30kWh. We have 13kWh of usable storage which was sized to comfortably handle our electricity usage excluding ASHP use. Anything outside of that is of ...

Also, this all assumes you're using gas for heating. If you have (or might ever get) a heat pump, and you have access to a cheap rate tariff, you just want as much battery as you can afford since it will pay you back every winter...

Hi Dave - sounds like the G2 gained the ability to do this Master / Slave config vs the original H1? If so that's very interesting, I hadn't realised that was the case.

(I wrote this yesterday and forgot to press send!)

There is a distinction to be made between the maximum DC power the battery can provide, and the maximum AC output of the inverter.

By way of example, I have x6 HV2600 modules here, giving a nominal voltage of 307.2V and a recommended discharge ...

The more packs you have for a given load, the less hard any of them need to work. Given you've got a high capacity inverter, I'd say you want as much battery as you can afford / for into the space.

Having each pack work less hard should also mean somewhat longer overall life for the bank as a whole ...

All grid tied systems will pull a small load from the grid in order to confirm it's still connected - if they can no longer draw that power, they shut down to avoid energising the grid and potentially electrocuting anyone working on the power lines.

At the same time, your inverter is constantly ...

I cannot see us ever wanting to add a third string of panels here - the only roof space left is north facing into a small patch of woodland, so pretty hopeless for PV generation purposes!

The main thing that sways me towards the KH is the main spec bump it seems to have over the H series, which I ...

So - this has progressed (slowly!) since I last posted. The installer was eventually able to get someone out to assess things and has confirmed the basics as expected, we'd need an earth spike and a manual changeover switch. Our DNO has also given us the nod to increase our export up to 6kW, without ...

All grid tied systems will pull a small load from the grid in order to confirm it's still connected - if they can no longer draw that power, they shut down to avoid energising the grid and potentially electrocuting anyone working on the power lines.

Your old system would have been doing the same ...

I may add a small tube heater to my enclosure for this winter, to keep the lower battery modules that are in contact with / close to the floor from getting too chilly, since temperature differences within the battery bank will also cause the BMS to derate the performance.
I ended up not doing ...

In case anyone is reading this in the future, one of the very concrete spec bumps the KH7 gets over the H-series is the ability to do 10kW peak AC output (assuming enough battery and / or PV) for up to 60 seconds in EPS mode - essentially a bit of overboost to avoid tripping the inverter with an ...

I'd do it anyway. Their cloud platform is so wobbly I'm assuming it's hosted on a blancmange. Home assistant plus a suitable integration and you're laughing.

there are very good reasons why we wont have anything wifi connected.

I am...curious. Care to expand?

Yep, Dave is a legend and has helped me a lot in getting my system (especially batteries) into good order and talking nicely to my Home Assistant setup. Best of luck for your system changeover.

Assuming you end up with the KH inverter and a certain amount of battery storage, you could set the "MinSOC on Grid" parameter to say, 70%, but the "minSOC" parameter to say, 15%.

When connected to the grid, your batteries would not discharge below 70% SOC, but in the event of a power cut, they ...